Toe-Up?

5 Responses to “Toe-Up?”

On October 30th, 2008 at 10:21 am Alice in the Heartland said:

Didn’t do them toe up but my medium size (size 7 shoe 9″heel to toe foot) had the chevron of the pattern starting 2″ after the toe increases (thinking toe up) ended. So my gusset ended two pattern repeats before the chevron ended. Did that make sense? If you have Cat Bordhi’s pattern from last year you could use her row gauge instructions to calculate where you need to start the pattern. Of course this means swatching the rib pattern. Hopefully some other wonderful technical knitter will pile on with better instructions. Hope this helps a little. Happy Knitting, Alice

On October 31st, 2008 at 1:47 pm shauschka@earthlink.net said:

I do 99.9% of my socks toe up because I don’t like to waste any of that luscious yarn. With this sock, I will probably start the chevron where I like, and work it even until I do my short row heel. Then I will connect it after the heel wherever I am in the pattern and continue until I run out of yarn.

I also wind my skeins from both ends to make approximately equal balls I start with what I think is the smaller ball; then put the first sock on yarn to hold the stitches while I make the second sock. Then I can even them out by knitting until I have 8X the circumference of one sock left. That leaves enough for doing an invisible bind-off ala Jean Wong.

I used a similar pattern stitch to make socks in STR grey (don’t remember the name of the colorway), and called them chain mail.

Sarah

On October 31st, 2008 at 1:48 pm shauschka@earthlink.net said:

I do 99.9% of my socks toe up because I don’t like to waste any of that luscious yarn. With this sock, I will probably start the chevron where I like, and work it until I do my short row heel. Then I will connect it after the heel wherever I am in the pattern and continue until I run out of yarn.

I also wind my skeins from both ends to make approximately equal balls I start with what I think is the smaller ball; then put the first sock on yarn to hold the stitches while I make the second sock. Then I can even them out by knitting until I have 8X the circumference of one sock left. That leaves enough for doing an invisible bind-off ala Jean Wong.

I used a similar pattern stitch to make socks in STR grey (don’t remember the name of the colorway), and called them chain mail.

Sarah

On November 4th, 2008 at 10:21 am shauschka@earthlink.net said:

Well, I am part way up the cuff working toe-up, and have a few more hints, based on my sock.

I did start the anemone pattern about 3/4″ after the big toe joint, which may have been a little early, but it looks good anyway. I just worked even until the length was where I needed to start the short row heel.

After the heel, I did something I have done before which worked well this time as well. I made sure that it had 64 stitches so that the pattern would come out even. Then I did the first part of the pattern - continuing whatever I had done across the instep- only over the first 8 stitches. I worked stockinette until the last 8 stitches on the heel, then worked them in the pattern so that it would mesh with the pattern on the instep.

I worked 1 vertical repeat (4 rows), then added in eight more stitches on each side, worked 4 rows, and repeated until I had incorporated all the heel side stitches into the pattern.

The result is an arch which gives room for the sock to fit in the shoe without running into the bulk and bumps of the pattern at the heel.

The line from the point on the instep to the top of the heel arch is a lovely sinuous ‘S’ on either side.

At the top, I will use an invisible 2X2 bind-off I learned from Jean Wong. The standard invisible bind off would work as well.

Sorry about the almost duplicate posts above. I tried to edit after the fact, and couldn’t delete the first one.

Sarah

On November 4th, 2008 at 10:27 am shauschka@earthlink.net said:

More thoughts here. This is not intended to be a full pattern if you have never worked toe up before. I have assumed that you have your own method of increasing up to 64 stitches, and choosing which stitches to incorporate into the heel, and know how you work your heel.

I started with 56, and started to add stitches at the same time I started the chevron. I put half the added stitches into the heel.

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